Six Months in Copenhagen

Perhaps the most inspirational side trip during my adventure in Europe was a trip to the Provence region of southern France. I followed in the footsteps of Van Gogh and other famous impressionists seeking a muse under the warm Provencal sun. Centuries earlier, the Romans colonized the fertile lands and relaxed in the local natural spring-fed baths. Two thousand years of building in the area have left an equally inspiring diversity of architecture.

My base for the weekend was in Aix-en-Provence. The city is known for its many spring fed fountains. The most famous is a big mossy block in the center of a major market street that springs warm water year round. The natural springs are the reason that the Romans settled the town and why it retained some importance throughout the middle ages. The buildings all look ancient. However, most homes now enjoy all the modern amenities - like indoor plumbing and high speed internet. It's fun to get lost in the narrow winding streets of the old city.

I found my way out of the maze of streets and headed up a hill north of town to Paul Cezanne's workshop. This impressionist artist was unquestionably the most famous resident of Aix-en-Provence. Late in his career, he built a workshop on the outskirts of town. The grounds of the workshop are still nicely kept with plants and flowers; however, only one room in the workshop is open to the public. The space is dominated by a huge window facing up the hill. Many of the actual objects featured in his still life paintings are on display. However, his most famous and inspirational paintings are of Mt. St. Victoire. The best vista is just a 15-minute walk from the workshop.

Cezanne's more famous contemporary, Van Gogh, also retreated to Provence. After being diagnosed with a mental disorder he was admitted to a hospice in the city of Arles. Many of his most famous paintings were completed while in isolation here. While Van Gogh found inspiration in the natural beauty of Arles, I came to be inspired by the city's famous Roman ruins.

The Roman Amphitheater or Arles sits at the highest point in the city and still dominates its surroundings. Amazingly, even though the structure was built in 90 A.D., it is still being used today - regularly showing bull fights since 1830. The monument is 136 m (~450 ft) long and is ringed by 60 arches. Twenty thousand spectators could have been comfortably seated to watch gladiator duels and exotic animals fight. In the middle ages, the structure was converted into a fortress. At that time, over 200 homes and two churches took up residence within the friendly confines.

I entered through the front gate, just like a typical Roman would have done. It wasn't hard to imagine the bowl filled with thousands of spectators. I hiked up to the top of one of the medieval towers for a bird's-eye view. From that vantage, I could see all of Arles, and I imagined how medieval watchmen would have been able to spot invaders from miles away.  Only a slight metal grandstand reminded me that it was 2007. Having worked on some stadiums back home, I was surprised by how little the basic arena concept has changed.

Next, I viewed the ruins of a Roman theater. The structure was originally built up off of ground level and included two levels of seating and huge stage area. In ancient times it would have looked much like a modern performance hall. History has not treated the first century B.C. structure as well as the adjacent amphitheater. Only the lower seating bowl and two of the hundreds of ornate columns that would have decorated the structure still remain.

Entertainment may have been for special occasions, but every afternoon, the Roman population would visit the baths. The process included a sauna treatment, hot bath, lukewarm rinse, some laps in the swimming pool and finally a massage. Much of the Roman baths of Arles remain to this day. Unfortunately, only a half-dome remains of the roof, and most of the floors are also gone. This allows modern visitors to walk through the ancient furnace rooms. 

I had a great time exploring the Roman ruins, market squares, and natural wonders of Provence. It is easy to see why so many people continue to visit the region in search of a muse. A special experience awaits those who can draw inspiration from the magnificent historic structures.